July 2010: Moscow to Saint Petersburg

This being summer, the Moscow Metro ran way past midnight. I arrived back at Three Stations at about midnight, that gave me another two hours before the train.
It may be midnight, but the stations and their surrounding were brightly lit and there were a sizeable crowd in and around the stations.Took out my camera and took the pictures of the three stations. There is, right across the street, the Kazanskiy station,
the Yaroslavsky station, where the tran-siberia train pulled into 3 days ago.
and the station where I will be catching the train to St. Petersburg, the Leningrad Station:
Even though it was past midnight, the waiting hall was filled with passengers waiting for their train. All the seats were occupied, and some of the passengers have to sit on the floor. But everything were in an orderly manner, no one were raising their voice, or blocking the passage with their luggages. Some of the shops were still open, and the passengers were milling in and out, getting souvenir or late night snacks.
The Moscow-St. Petes one seems to be a busy route. There were 2 trains before my 2:20am one, and one more after at 6:45am.
Once the 1:53am pulled out from the platform, the crowd started to gather around track no. 3 for the 2:20am. Among them were some Chinese passengers who seems to be part of a tour group doing the Moscow-St Pete (and Golden Ring?) route.
As the 2:20am was on the track, I bought some bottled water and snack from the platform kiosk. Other fellow passengers lit up on the platform and smoke their last stick before the journey. The lady conductors were ready at each car to check the ticket and the picture identity of the passengers. My ticket had a typo and my name did not match that on my passport. I was hoping the check isn't as strict as I feared. Fortunately, the conductor saw it as an honest mistake.
It was a really crowded space on the 3rd class car. But all the Russian settle in pretty fast. There were on each seats, bedsheet, pillow, pillow sheet and a thin blanket wrapped in a plastic bag. Once the train pulled out of the station and was cruising along, the Russians start to pull the seats into the bed for the night. With her neck crooked, and the back of her hand on her cheek, the Russia girl sitting opposite me gestured that it was her bedtime and I should start making my bed on the upper deck, too.

Within half an hour, everyone were flat on their beds. I was probably pretty tired, and the next time I looked out of the window, it was 9 the next morning.
As I observed the other passengers from my bed, it looks like all the ladies had woke up quite early and was queuing outside the toilet at both end of the car. Some were still in their bed while other had already folded up their bedsheets and blanket.
I did the same and then went down to the seat below. Then I went over to the toilet. It was obvious why the ladies were rushing to be the first in line. By now, the toilet were pretty dirty and the car had ran out of water for flushing. The conductor was preparing glasses of coffee and tea (with a slice of lemon) for sale to the passengers. Near the exit were a big laundry bag, and before the train pulled into St. Petersburg, every Russian dutifully folded up their sheets and brought them over to the bag. Well, when in Rome...
At about 11:30am, the train pulled into St. Petersburg (or one of the many stations in St Petes). The station was a newer structure than the Moscow ones in Three Stations.
The metro station is connected to the train station, so I didn't have to get out of the train station. From the station, I took a picture of the streets outside because I guessed (correctly) I will be returning to Moscow from a different station.
Getting a ticket on the metro proved easy now that I have learnt to write my destination on a piece of paper. Push it to the counter lady, one finger to indicate one ticket and I was on my way.

Finally, I was about to visit the Hermitage museums.

June 2010: Day 3 Part II, Moscow, Russia

It seems like the other side of the river is a posh area of Moscow. I based my guess on the continental cars parked by the side of the road, and the breed of dogs the tai-tais were walking, and how no one seems to be getting on or off the bus-stops on this stretch of road. Also, the ground floor of a few of these buildings were selling what seems to be expensive home furnishing: all stainless steel kitchen furniture and leather sofas. I didn't take long before I was back at where I have started, near the Park Kultury station, but it was still too early to get back to the hostel. I decided to follow the river and see if there's any surprises in store.

It didn't take too long before something interesting appeared on the bank. It was a hugh statue, and my guess was it was one of Peter the Great. It turns out my guess was right. At the time, I felt it stuck out from its surrounding, kind of out of place. Later in October that year, news came out of Moscow that this statue may not be there by the river much longer.
According a BBC report, it was: Yuri Luzhkov who commissioned the statue in the 1990s. Mr Luzhkov used to be one of Russia's most powerful politicians. He was Moscow mayor for 18 years until he fell out with the Kremlin. In September, President Dmitry Medvedev sacked him. And that's when Tsar Peter came under attack. Acting mayor, Vladimir Resin hinted that the infamous statue should be moved. Curiously, Peter the Great hated Moscow - and Muscovites seem to feel the same way about this statue. "That's the ugliest statue of the end of the 20th Century," says Vladimir, who lives in an apartment block opposite the large tsar. A passers-by what they think of the oversized tsar. "It's disgusting!" one man tells me. "It's awful," says a woman, "It's just too huge. Big doesn't mean beautiful!"
Looks like I am not the only one who found the statue odd.

Leaving the statue, I start to find the buildings ahead familiar, it didn't take long before the towers of the Kremlin appeared in the distant.
It was almost 8pm, so it's time to cross the road and get to a metro station. This seems to be rush hour, and it took almost 15 minutes before the traffic light turn green for the pedestrians.
Having been in Moscow for three days, I find it comfortable enough to take some pictures of the metro. This is no longer the police state we make it out to be. While there are security personnel walking the platform in groups, most of them have this look like they would rather be somewhere else. I doubt any of the Muscovites would give me problem either. So far, no sign of racism. On at least one occasion, one stop to hold the heavy metro door for me.
I took the metro to Arbat station. It is right at one end of the touristy Arbat street. The other end of the street is about 5 blocks from the hostel.
The is also a 24hr MacDonbald's at the other end, so this is a good place to while away a couple of hours. I make a note of the sourvenir available here, so that I could come back later to buy them. The was one guy who was running a game of luck/skill bordering on a scam. He had a bicycle which looked pretty normal. The guy would demostrate by riding the bike pass a few distant marking draw on the road with chalk. Those looking on can pay him a fee to get on the bike, and stand a chance to make some prize money, the value of which depend on the distant travelled on the bike. He made it so simple that a few looker-ons decided to try. But somehow, once someone else got on the bike, it seemed to get rickety, and none manage to travel the minimum distant to win any prize money. Of course, no one got their 'initial investment' back.
By the time I was done with dinner at the Mac, it was past 10pm. It's time to collect my backpack at the hostel and head down to the train station.
I have an overnight train to catch to get to St Peterburg's. But not before the reception gave me a scare. She had abandon her station and left with the key to the locker where my laptop is. The cleaning lady, who speak no English, was standing in for her and kept holding out her palm to tell me to wait. The cleaning lady has a central-asian (almost Chinese) look, I was hoping she could speak Chinese, but no luck here. Luckily the recep was back in about 20 minutes time.

June 2010: Day 3, Gorky Park, Moscow

I woke up late the next day. It's the day to check out of the hostel and the only bed I could get was on a train that leaves Moscow (for St. Peterburg's) at about 2am the next morning. The hostel was accomodating, I was allowed to leave my stuff with them until late in the evening. And I was allowed to take a shower later in the evening. But with my stuff all packed up, I would rather wash up before I check out.

In the morning, I also needed to check if I could book a flight back from Helsinki to Singapore with my SIA frequent flyer miles (should I travel all the way to Finland). Because SIA don't fly direct from Helsinki, I couldn't make the check over the website. That call ended up being one of the most expensive single expense for this trip. It didn't help the call centre staff at the other end of the line kept asking me if I wanted a ticket out of "Hell's Fire" (when I told her Helsinki.) All their flight connects somewhere in Germany and that leg was booked solid. I guess Scandavia will not be included in this trip.After my shower, I went online for some last minute info-gathering. By the time I checked out, it was almost noon. I was going back to the Red Square, there was someone I need to visit before I left Moscow.

Lenin, or rather, the preserved corpse of him. In a glass coffin in his mausolem by the wall of the Kremlin.
A long queue had already formed. There was a middle age guy who claimed to be from the National museum and could get me into the mausolem on his 'express' lane'. I declined, so did all other he approached. The line moved quite quickly. At the head of the line, a small group is allowed past, who then join another line to deposit all bags, cellphone and camera (they charged extra for cellphone.) After that, you go through security check. All these were done pretty efficiently.

The group is led into the mausolem, which was wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling jet black oryx (or some other such stones.) The coffin is in the basement, when the room temperature drop a few degrees. The guard kept a watchful eyes on us tourist. I had 1 hand in my pocket and that was deemed disrespectful. I was 'told' to get my hands out with a stern look (from the guard, not Lenin) and one finger point at my pocket.
Once back under the sun, I took the subway back to Park Kultury. The station was named for Gorky Park. It was one of the place that was must-visit on this trip. The park was the name of a book by Martin Cruz Smith and a movie adaptation.
It also inspire the Scorpion's song Wind of Change ("follow the Mockba down to Gorki Park, listening to the wind of changes...")
With a name like Park Kultury you expect there to be a theatre in it. And for being the choice of setting for Martin Cruz Smith's crime thriller, I expected it to be a dense woody park where shadowy characters lurks.
In a way, Gorky Park is both, but it is mainly an amusement park. The gate to the park was a grand affair. But the ticketing by the side was three tiny windows opening in the wall. There was no long queue, mainly young couples on their date. Admission is cheap anyway.
As an amusement park, there were the pony and camel ride
...and the usual fairground attractions: bumper car each with a Russian flag,
ferris wheel,
roller coaster,
kiddy train and what looks like a replica of a NASA space shutler.
There was a theatre within, and a queue was forming for ticket of what looks like a rock concert that evening. There was what looks like a posh night club, and a food and beverage centre with more affordable items such as kebab and beer. That food centre seems to be staffed by mostly central asians. The park is green with leafy tree, there was a hugh pond (or small lake) where the Russians were enjoying the summer sun on their peddle boats. And on the park bench was a couple fondling each other.
With the grand gateway, it is obvious where the entrance to the park is, but it's not that obvious for the exit. The park occupied quite a bit of real estate and it seems towards the back, it is not enclosed and one can leave by walking away along the river broadwalk. So, it's like playing a record of Scorpion backwards...I follow the Mockba, AWAY from Gorky Park (I wonder if I could make out the devil in the background.)
The river Moscow was shimmering under the summer sun that afternoon. The Muscovites were out in the sun, some spreading their beach towel right on the broadwork and getting a tan, others were just sitting around, listening in to their radio or watching program on their mobile TV. Their was a pair of teenage boys doing Jackie Chan-parkour stunts and video taping themselves.
Along the length of the river (on the Gorky park side) were the woody park I had imagined Gorky Park to be. In the bright daylight, the Russian were jogging and rollerblading, or simply chatting and taking pictures. But the high number of empty liquor bottles from the nights before suggested that when night falls, the area may turn rowdier.
Quite a few bridges span the river along the short length I travelled. By the time I reached one with hugh graffitti on it, I decided it is time to cross to the other side and make my way back.
That bridge is both a pedestrian and railway bridge. From high up on the bridge the two banks of the river stand in clear contrast. The Gorky park side was tree-lined, while stone building lined the other.Scorpions - Wind of Change
I follow the Moskva
Down to Gorky Park
Listening to the wind of change
An August summer night
Soldiers passing by
Listening to the wind of change

The world closing in
Did you ever think
That we could be so close,like brothers
The future's in the air
I can feel it everywhere
Blowing with the wind of change

Chorus:
Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change

Walking down the street
Distant memories
Are buried in the past forever

I fallow the Moskva
Down to Gorky Park
Listening to the wind of change

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow share their dreams
With you and me

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change

The wind of change blows straight
Into the face of time
Like a stormwind that will ring
The freedom bell for peace of mind
Let your balalaika sing
What my guitar wants to say

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow share their dreams
With you and me

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change

Chow chow on the Choo choo: Part the One

Let's take a break from the Railroad MP3 series, and turn our attention on food on the wheels. Get ready for part the one of....Chow Chow on the Choo choo.







1. Malaysia
I don't think there are lunch car on the train service running between Singapore and KL, or KL to Butterworth. Which is possibly the case, since the time taken for both trip isn't that long. Anyone who worry about getting hungry along the way can easily pack some food for the trip. When I took these trips, it was on the overnight train, so sleep was a higher priority than food.


When it was announced in 2010 that the Tanjong Pagar station will cease to operate from July 2011, the news got the food stall at the station. Suddenly, the nasi bryani stalls got onto the Singaporean gourmet map.


Local magazines did write-ups on the KTM lines both on the East and West coasts. One tidbit seller on the East coast line got a chance to tell about how he paddle his ware from station to station, and having to stay overnight away from home before making his trip back home. And how his wife hated his mode of operation.


Then there is also that famous roti and coffee shop within Kluang station on the west coast line. With some interviewed who mentioned that they would make trip up North just for food from this stall.

Interest in the Tanjong Pagar station and the KTM lines have cooled down somewhat. It may heat up again near July 2011.


But after that, the station will cease to be a train station, but another national monument.






2. Thailand
On one trip from Hatyai to Bangkok, I was shown a handwritten menu of dinner offered on the train, which I can enjoyed right at my seat. The fact that the local don't seem to be interested suggest that it might not be a good offer. But I was hungry then, and I was interested to find out how the food was like. If the dinner come in disposable packaging printed with the Thai Railway logoes, I would be interested to collect them. I placed my order and the Thai auntie move down the train for more order.

As the sun set outside the window, the auntie came back with my order on a square wooden tray. This tray serves as the table top once secure to the window sill, and skillfully balance on a wooden plank that serve as the table leg. Once I am done, she simply gave a sharp kick on this 'leg' and disassemble the whole table. The food was good, but once I am in Bangkok and check out the price, I could see their profit margin was quite high.

Out of curiosity, when the auntie came to collect her plates, I followed her back to (what I thought) was her lunch car or kitchen. However, I looked like she and an Thai guy were operating out of what looks like a cargo carriage. The raw material for their operation were right there in the carriage. A stove was connected to a gas cylinder and that's how they did their cooking.

Very enterprising.
































3. Laos
The border stations of Nong Khai (Thai side) and Thanaleng (Laos side, and current the only Laos Railway station) are 3.5km apart. I am not sure what its speed was when I took the train, but let say it's a respective 50km/h. The distance could be covered under 5 minutes. Now, say it takes 1 minute for a pot of water to boil, 2 more minutes for the instant noodle to cook in that pot, and round it to a total of 4 minute for that egg on top to be half-cooked.

So, what's your questions? Do they have a lunch car on the Laos train? Is that your question?


.....Seriously?


















4. Cambodia
The trip from Phnom Penh to Battambong (currently the only remaining service of the Royal Cambodia Railway) was done on caariages that you could see the rail from the between the remaining floorboard, and the blue Khmer sky from the rusted-through metal roof.

I started early in the morning at about 7am. I expected delay but was hoping to be in Battambong at about 10pm. 10pm passed and there was no sign of Battambong. Earlier, the conductor had approached me to ask if I would like to alight at the next larger town, where I can take one of the last buses of the day to Battambong. He was not sure when we will arrived at Battambong, but was sure the buses will reach before the train. There was no electric lights on the train, and it was almost emptied of passengers. The seats around me was empty and I could just laid down. As the train makes it way across the field, you could just looked up at the sky, and with no 'light pollution', the stars spread out on the dark sky.

Earlier in the day, food vendor had board the train at the busier stations. Their fare include rice, of course, some other stuff wrap in banana (I guess) leaves. One hawker came with a whole cooked chicken, its crown standing proudly, on a tray. I guess she would tear out some parts of the chicken according to customer's wishes. The chicken would come with sauces and condiments wrapped in plastic bags.

I didn't buy from any of them, fearing a stomachache. I have came on the trip with some drinks, bread, buns, biscuit and canned food I have bought the night before at the kiosk in the petrol station near the hotel. There's no shop in the Phnom Penh station. I offered some of the biscuit to the kid seating across me. He seems to like the rust on the window sill better, picking them of the window and putting in his month. His parents rejected my offer of biscuit, too. Some of the other passengers did offered the hawker food to me. I tried the sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. It's not bad, and most important, there was no stomach problem after that.


By the time the train arrived, it was 2am the next morning.





















5. Vietnam
The Unification Train runs from Ho Chi Ming city in the South to Hanoi in the north. When I took it, the sleeper car ticket come with free meal. When lunch time comes, the food trolley was pushed down the carriage, the 'waitress' did a count of passengers in the room (4 beds to a room) and served the food and a very generous serving of white steamed rice.

I shared most of my journey with three Australians, who came on at a station near the seaside after HCM city. They sounded like they have been surfing the last few days. When they came on I was on the lower bed. One of the Australian guy was with his Vietnamese 'girlfriend' (probably one he had hooked up at the seaside.) Before the girlfriend bid them goodbye, she informed the Australian that she had made arrangement with the conductor for me to give up my bed and moved to the upper bed, so that one of the lady matey in their group would take over. Well, whatever arrangement they had made, I was not informed.

Once the 'girlfriend' left and the train pulled out of the station, the Ozzies started talking about that 'girlfriend'. It was obvious they don't have high opinion of her. To them, she was thinking she had found a meal ticket, or maybe a way out of Vietnam to Australia. But she was just a local guide who help with translation and smooth thinks for them, like bumping an Asian guy like me off his paid bed.

When bedtime came around, they indicated, politely, that I should moved up. I could almost see the surprise in the eyes when I spoke in English that I was not aware of such arrangement. They probably thought I didn't understand any of their conversation. I was pretty angry about being bumped around and I refused to move. They finally gave up.

The next day, lunch was served with that generous offer of rice. The Ozzies took a look at what was offered, clearly looked like what was offered was not to their liking, and promptly offered their portion to me. I should have rejected from the episode last night, but I just could bear to waste what was perfectly good food to me.

I regret to inform you that I accepted.