June 2010: Day 3, Gorky Park, Moscow

I woke up late the next day. It's the day to check out of the hostel and the only bed I could get was on a train that leaves Moscow (for St. Peterburg's) at about 2am the next morning. The hostel was accomodating, I was allowed to leave my stuff with them until late in the evening. And I was allowed to take a shower later in the evening. But with my stuff all packed up, I would rather wash up before I check out.

In the morning, I also needed to check if I could book a flight back from Helsinki to Singapore with my SIA frequent flyer miles (should I travel all the way to Finland). Because SIA don't fly direct from Helsinki, I couldn't make the check over the website. That call ended up being one of the most expensive single expense for this trip. It didn't help the call centre staff at the other end of the line kept asking me if I wanted a ticket out of "Hell's Fire" (when I told her Helsinki.) All their flight connects somewhere in Germany and that leg was booked solid. I guess Scandavia will not be included in this trip.After my shower, I went online for some last minute info-gathering. By the time I checked out, it was almost noon. I was going back to the Red Square, there was someone I need to visit before I left Moscow.

Lenin, or rather, the preserved corpse of him. In a glass coffin in his mausolem by the wall of the Kremlin.
A long queue had already formed. There was a middle age guy who claimed to be from the National museum and could get me into the mausolem on his 'express' lane'. I declined, so did all other he approached. The line moved quite quickly. At the head of the line, a small group is allowed past, who then join another line to deposit all bags, cellphone and camera (they charged extra for cellphone.) After that, you go through security check. All these were done pretty efficiently.

The group is led into the mausolem, which was wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling jet black oryx (or some other such stones.) The coffin is in the basement, when the room temperature drop a few degrees. The guard kept a watchful eyes on us tourist. I had 1 hand in my pocket and that was deemed disrespectful. I was 'told' to get my hands out with a stern look (from the guard, not Lenin) and one finger point at my pocket.
Once back under the sun, I took the subway back to Park Kultury. The station was named for Gorky Park. It was one of the place that was must-visit on this trip. The park was the name of a book by Martin Cruz Smith and a movie adaptation.
It also inspire the Scorpion's song Wind of Change ("follow the Mockba down to Gorki Park, listening to the wind of changes...")
With a name like Park Kultury you expect there to be a theatre in it. And for being the choice of setting for Martin Cruz Smith's crime thriller, I expected it to be a dense woody park where shadowy characters lurks.
In a way, Gorky Park is both, but it is mainly an amusement park. The gate to the park was a grand affair. But the ticketing by the side was three tiny windows opening in the wall. There was no long queue, mainly young couples on their date. Admission is cheap anyway.
As an amusement park, there were the pony and camel ride
...and the usual fairground attractions: bumper car each with a Russian flag,
ferris wheel,
roller coaster,
kiddy train and what looks like a replica of a NASA space shutler.
There was a theatre within, and a queue was forming for ticket of what looks like a rock concert that evening. There was what looks like a posh night club, and a food and beverage centre with more affordable items such as kebab and beer. That food centre seems to be staffed by mostly central asians. The park is green with leafy tree, there was a hugh pond (or small lake) where the Russians were enjoying the summer sun on their peddle boats. And on the park bench was a couple fondling each other.
With the grand gateway, it is obvious where the entrance to the park is, but it's not that obvious for the exit. The park occupied quite a bit of real estate and it seems towards the back, it is not enclosed and one can leave by walking away along the river broadwalk. So, it's like playing a record of Scorpion backwards...I follow the Mockba, AWAY from Gorky Park (I wonder if I could make out the devil in the background.)
The river Moscow was shimmering under the summer sun that afternoon. The Muscovites were out in the sun, some spreading their beach towel right on the broadwork and getting a tan, others were just sitting around, listening in to their radio or watching program on their mobile TV. Their was a pair of teenage boys doing Jackie Chan-parkour stunts and video taping themselves.
Along the length of the river (on the Gorky park side) were the woody park I had imagined Gorky Park to be. In the bright daylight, the Russian were jogging and rollerblading, or simply chatting and taking pictures. But the high number of empty liquor bottles from the nights before suggested that when night falls, the area may turn rowdier.
Quite a few bridges span the river along the short length I travelled. By the time I reached one with hugh graffitti on it, I decided it is time to cross to the other side and make my way back.
That bridge is both a pedestrian and railway bridge. From high up on the bridge the two banks of the river stand in clear contrast. The Gorky park side was tree-lined, while stone building lined the other.Scorpions - Wind of Change
I follow the Moskva
Down to Gorky Park
Listening to the wind of change
An August summer night
Soldiers passing by
Listening to the wind of change

The world closing in
Did you ever think
That we could be so close,like brothers
The future's in the air
I can feel it everywhere
Blowing with the wind of change

Chorus:
Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change

Walking down the street
Distant memories
Are buried in the past forever

I fallow the Moskva
Down to Gorky Park
Listening to the wind of change

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow share their dreams
With you and me

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change

The wind of change blows straight
Into the face of time
Like a stormwind that will ring
The freedom bell for peace of mind
Let your balalaika sing
What my guitar wants to say

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow share their dreams
With you and me

Take me to the magic of the moment
On a glory night
Where the children of tomorrow dream away
In the wind of change