July, 2011: 国境の南， 太陽の西 Week1 MONTERREY

The Mexican state of Nuevo Leon (NL) was in a state of war while I was in Monterrey (the capital city.)
According to one newspaper, the death toll then stands at
Military : 3
Police: 74
'Innocents': 39

It was not a conventional war. Mexico was not at war with the USA, nor any of her Central America neighbors. Neither was there a civil war. What was raging on in NL was a Narcotic War, between two main drug cartels, and between them and the state. The death toll for the criminal organization was 971, rounding off a grand total of 1087.

Every day, you expect the same headline news on the frontpage of the local tabloid: someone being gunned down in the streets of NL, completed with graphic photoes of the bodies.
As a guage of the seriousness of the war and the viciousness of the cartels, none is more significant than the presence of the NL police force. They are highly visible in Monterrey city: kevlar helmet, flak jacket, goggles and facemask to hide their identity, high-powered rifle that you associate more with the military than the police, and their new beaming American-muscle rides---the Dodge Ram pickups in blue and white. I would have taken pictures, but the locals adviced against it. One Mexican related how he had to stay in the police station for one night for taking pictures of the police. When flying out of Monterrey, I even saw one propellor plane with the Mexico Policia Federal insignia.
It is no wonder, then, that the common advice I got from the local is to stay put in the hotel and avoid moving around. But the urge to move about is hard to resist, especially since I have travelled so far just to be here. And I kind of subscribe to the scenerio of Sergei Lukyanenko's "Night Watch", that evil has its time and place. Ron Mueck was having an exhibition downtown, Monterrey is the second richest city in Mexico...how bad can the downtown be? So, during the first weekend, I left the airport hotel and went downtown.
It was a bright hot afternoon when I ventured out of the hotel in San Pedro. I have wanted to walk from the hotel all the way downtown. Distance-wise, it is possible, but the route leading downtown was mostly 3-lane highway with heavy traffic. Another reason was the fear that I may wander into neighborhood not safe even to the police. One such neighborhood is the notorious Colonia Independencia. The hotel driver said he will not drive us through its streets for any amount of money; and no police will venture in without backup...of at least another 20 squad cars, and preferrably with the army covering their arse. Ironically, Mexican drug cartels' power grew as a result of American success against Colombia's Medellin and Cali cartels.
I have to give up and took a taxi. There was no problem with the cab driver: the meter was reset without my prompting, and no attempt to make a tourist pay more. And in about 20 minutes I was in Centro Monterrey.
Centro Monterrey tourist attractions are mainly a cluster of museums, plazas (large open squares, sprinkled with statues), a walking street on one side of the plaza and a 'Old District' (Barrio Artiguo) on the other side. Further away are streets with churches and busy and vibrant roadside stalls.
There was a statue of a General Mariano Escobedo on horseback, probably the only one I have seen where the military subject wears glasses.
Monterrey being the second richest in Mexico ("Sultan of the North"), I was expecting the plaza to be grander. They were actually pretty modest in size. But I guess you need to be a communist state to afford large grand public spaces. In the hot afternoon, the crowd wasn't that huge, but as the mercury dips (a little) later in the afternoon, the crowd hanging out on the plaza grew.
The walking street actually reminded me of China. It looks similar to walking street 步行街 sprouting up in many Chinese cities. It is also in an older part of the city, where old building are conserved and turned in shops and restaurants. This little tram (disguised as a railway train) reminded me of the Shanghai walking street.
Of course, there is still no mistaking that this is Mexico.

July, 2011: 国境の南， 太陽の西 South of the Border, Prelude

A year ago when I left Moscow, I would not have imagined I would be back so soon. Strictly speaking, I wasn't back, just transitting in Moscow Domodedovo airport, on the way to Mexico. Mexico via Moscow.
If not for a fortunate turn of event, I would, in this summer, likely have continue from where I left off in Moscow last summer: fly into Moscow, travel by train into Helsinki, Finland, and all the way to Nordkapp by bus. But sometimes in June, the news was that there will be a project in Mexico. Great!
My plan was to finished up travelling north (stopping at Nordkapp) and start travelling south by train. South America would be the likely candidate. It looks like I would have to start south earlier than planned.
The fact is, Mexico isn't really south of the border. Not MY border anyway. It is south of the USA-Mexico border alright. I know that from an old song by Frank Sinatra (South of the Border), by way of a Murakami Haruki novel (South of the Border, West of the Sun). But with the Tropic of Cancer (北回归线) running through it, it is still north of the Equator. So, I am still heading in the general direction of north, although no longer limited to Asia-Europe.
Well, it's a long way from Singapore to Mexico. So, many thanks for SIA Inflight entertainment. Including this little gem only the Japanese could have come up with: 阪急電車 片道15分の奇跡.
Before getting into Mexico, there is a little inconvenience of transitting in Houston. Texas. It was on the inter-terminals tram in the airporty that I heard the news that USA is playing Japan in the FIFAWomen's World Cup final that very afternoon: "I hope the USA win..because it's my country. But I am OK if the Japanese team. Well...they played well....and they did have an earthquake recently".
No prize for guessing which side the majority here were rooting for. Japan played USA into extra time, before winning through penalty kicks.
More than 24hrs after leaving Changi Airport, I finally arrived in Mexico. Monterrey isn't such a nice place as an introduction to Mexico. In fact, I spent my first week not far from the airport. It's kindna like a dusty cowboy town. One main street with bars, saloons and hotels.
In the case of Monterrey Aeropuerto (Spanish for airport), it was one highway, a Crowne Plaza, one Ibis, one Holiday Inn and a bunch of restaurants (Chilli's, Carl's Jr, etc).

2011年6月： 丹戎巴葛车站， 怀念啊怀念啊!!!!!!!!

听说六月底丹戎巴葛车站就要停止使用。 趁着周末我带着摄影器材来到了车站。
虽然是个周末，也是个学校假期， 可是到访的人并不多。 国人也真是的， 拥有这么多年历史的车站就要走入历史了， 却乏人拜访。 无情呀无情。

来到了月台， 正好拍到站牌和“Way Out”的指示牌。 真他妈太有意义了。 这表示着丹戎巴葛快走入历史了。
听说车站内有几张大型壁画， 找了找确实有。看了看作品确实有很高的艺术价值。 外行人可能觉得不过是几张小学生的作品， 可是明眼人一看就知道作者要表现的是一颗赤子之心。
除了壁画以外还有一块浮雕。 说是四具男性雕像。 可是数了数， 不止四具也不止男性的。 报道的傻B肯定弄错了。
接着我走出车站，去欣赏其建筑风格。 确实有其保留的价值。 半圆的拱形入口简单而有气势。
看了拱门， 我回到了车站。 听说小小的车站里有书报摊，小商店， 和马来小吃摊。
听说周末时， 小吃店门庭若市。 大家都趁着摊位关门前来揾食。 可是明明是日本小吃店吗。 有没有搞错？！ 而且连个人影也没。
书报摊也一样。 连个鬼影也没有。 而且报道说是印度父子经营了几代的摊位。 可是老板看起来明明是华人， 也不是男人。
我回到了月台。 真的一丁点人潮也没有， 更别说有拍照的人了。 唉， 国人太无情了。 都要走入历史的车站竟然没人来拜访。 我拿着相机对着各个角落拍照。 这时迎面走来了一群带枪警卫。
警卫： What are you doing? You cannot take photo here?
我： What you mean? Everyone is coming here to take pictures. What you mean by cannot take?
搞什么？ 那么大一条新闻他没听说过？
警卫： You are not allow to take picture on the platform. You have to leave.
我： But this station going to close, I just take some picture wah. Cannot meh?
警卫： Here where got close down. Here close down all the office people go where to take train?
我： They go where to take train I no care, but this train station closing down, I just take some picture cannot meh.
警卫： 。。。
我： 。。。
警卫： 。。。
我： 。。。
警卫： Brother, this one M R T. Closing down that one is train station lah.
我： Correct wah. This M R T TRAIN station closing down wah.
警卫： Brother, that one closing one is Tanjung Pagar KTM Railway Station. This one is M R T station. Different seah.
我： 。。。
警卫： Different...
我： 。。。
警卫： 。。。
我： Like that ah.....oh......er.....ok..ok..I go first...

离开前， 警卫丢下一句 Bodoh, 不知道是什么意思。 估计是“好孩子”之类的意思吧。

Railroad MP3: Part the Six

Click here for Part the Five

欧亚大陆最南站 丹戎巴葛： 始发 1932年5月2日 《--------》 末班 2011年6月30日


歌曲： 末班车
歌手： 周传雄
专辑： 《transfer》

词:周传雄 祝骊雯曲:周传雄

搭上最后这班末班车
我就要离开你
还在眷恋着过去
还伤心不及
强迫自己要把记忆抹去
车票上的印记
刻下的回忆还要多少时间褪迹
狼狈不堪的远行
装不满的行李
强烈浮现眼前点点滴滴
我就是不懂温柔不够纤细不能了解你
到最后我们的爱降到谷底
后悔已来不及
背离了你背离自己
固执的朝着相反的方向离去
我就是不会放弃不想逃避不能没有你
只好让寂寞沉沉沉到心里
沉默的夜色里
你的脸却分外清晰
寂静的车厢布满冷冷的空气
http: www.feiyes.net


李千娜
歌名： 尾班車(台)
♪ 同名專輯

曲 周傳雄
詞 陳信榮 李千娜

送你送到這　等待尾班車　甘講一切就到這
無知安怎寂寞孤單　一路擾亂阮的心肝

我像孤單鳥隻　不願來靠岸
欲怎樣才會感覺卡快活　
感情路歹走　我相信這就是相欠債的拖磨

你賣哭甲這尼醜　
請你離開之後賣擱為我等待
一切攏當作係天的安排

火車漸漸離開車站　離開你的愛　
你沒轉頭　你沒等待　全攏沒放阮在心內　
月台熱鬧慢慢散去　空虛的氣味
冷冷的風　笑我憨呆　笑我抹會看破　愛

送你送到這　等待尾班車　甘講一切就到這
無知安怎寂寞孤單　一路擾亂阮的心肝

我像孤單鳥隻　不願來靠岸
欲怎樣才會感覺卡快活　
感情路歹走　我相信這就是相欠債的拖磨

你賣哭甲這尼醜　
請你離開之後賣擱為我等待
一切攏當作係天的安排

火車漸漸離開車站　離開你的愛　
你沒轉頭　你沒等待　全攏沒放阮在心內　
月台熱鬧漸漸散去　空虛的氣味
冷冷的風　笑我憨呆　笑我抹會看破　愛

火車漸漸離開車站　離開你的愛　
你沒轉頭　你沒等待　全攏沒放阮在心內　
月台熱鬧漸漸散去　空虛的氣味
冷冷的風　笑我憨呆　笑我抹會看破　愛

男聲部份: 你不要哭的這麼醜,請你離開只要不再委曲藏在,只好當作上天的安排

June, 2011: Tanjong Pagar station to Johor Bahru Sentral station (and NO, there is no typo here)

If you were in Singapore in the month of June, you would know what this is all about.
79 years after the first train pulled into Tangjong Pagar railway station(TP), the last will leave on the night of 30 June 2011. The railway station will cease to be one (and get 'downgraded' to a 'national monument'...I mean, what railway station with any pride would want to be a national monument.) All KTM (Malaysia railway) trains will stop at the Woodland station, the only remaining working railway station south of the Straits of Johor.

When it became apparent that all it takes to be part of this nation's history is the price of a train ticket, the people of Singapore rise to the occasion. Once the June school holiday rolled around, the weekends started seeing a surge in passenger volume. Shuttlebugs (or anyone who still have the use of their right index finger) were turning out in full force at the station, on the railway tracks and the Bukit Timah station, sitting between TP and Woodland station. Nature lovers were organizing walks along the tracks, and foodies (I take it means people who love their food, which I think includes 99.99% of our population) were braving the crowd to eat at the station canteen (the stalls will have to vacate.)

On the last Saturday of TP's operation, I stepped into the frenzy. A little price to pay to be part of history.
I was actually on a SDN-organized tour and believe were put on a chartered train. They were really packing us in. By the time the train left the platform, it was packed end to end. By the time the excitment of being part of history wears off (which took less than the time to go from TP to somewhere near Henderson), the passengers were complaining about the air-con, or rather the lack of it. Everyone on my car (which was the last ones) were sweating profusely.
The relief came in the form of the Bukit Timah Station. Here, the train made a stop. Not a whistle stop, but for about an hour. Some of the passengers mistaken this to be the end of the line, and were actually quite happy about it. They were quite happy to leave the train, only to be told that, no sir no mdm, the line goes all the way to JB.
At this point, many were pondering whether to go onto the plaform. Those who have a seat do not wish to vacate, some aunties worry about the steep high steps to the tracks. One father were discouraging his son from stepping out onto the track. Too dangerous, he said, too hot, he said. Until a sinkh in red turban decided to intervene: "Boy, just go lah. Be brave. You young man you know, not like your father, old man." The father, obviously embarrassed, relented. I hope the boy grows to remember this trip, and the lesson he took with it.
But when it became apparent that this was not to be a brief stop, everyone went onto the track.

The cameras were out and everyone were posing on the track, in the station and with the train. Some went for the train itself, no details were spared. From the side, from the back, and even some upskirts pictures.
I were more certain we were not on a regular train, as we were parked on the track furthest from the station. And before we moved on north, we have to make way for one south bound train, and one north bound one which left TP after us.

Just when we were running out of things to do on the tracks, the KTM staff signalled everyone to get back on the train. Everyone was glad it is time again to be on the road. The train left, and before long, some were making plans for their return trip: "I think I will take bus from JB, cannot tahan the train leh." "So stuffy, go back by bus, faster and cooler, next time don't take train anymore." (Sorry ah, the reason we are here is because there is no more next time.) One boy boy was heard asking his mum: "Mummy, can go home already?"

The journey from Bukit Timah to Woodland were much smoother, and faster. As the wind blows into the car, it was more tolerable. When the train stopped at Woodland checkpoint, there were the same relief-followed-by-disappointment scene: "Oh, good. That's it. Can go home liao", followed by "Huh, not jyet? Must clear custom some more?"
Anyway, that's the view from the last car on the train. Heard that the first car were fully air-conditioned, so I gues the folks there had a much pleasant ride.Custom was not much of an hassle. And good riddance to this ridiculous pre-July-2011 routine of first entering Malaysia before leaving Singapore (I know the world is round...but still....). Once everyone cleared custom, we were back on the train for the short hop across the Johor Straits. This time, no one were disapoointed, this is indeed the end of the line for us: Johor Bahru Sentral.
The return trip in the late afternoon was a much pleasant one. Everyone got their seat, and the entire train was air-conditioned. I guess that's because this is a regular service train. As the late afternoon cools into evening, the crowd were out in full force along the Bukit Timah and Rifle Range Rd sections of the track. I even caught a glimpse of a couple (in the full wedding glory) with the entourage.

The train pull into TP around 8pm. We were greeted by a mass of photographers, so many that the security were sent in. And the food stalls were making brisk business. The sky were darkening as I made my way out of the station, carefully not to be in the way of the photograhers.

It was an even crazier scene as I witness the last train pulling out of Tanjong Pagar Station. A lot have been said about the train, the station and the memories. But I guess, railway as a mode of transportation, in this age of budget airline and common car-owning, had stayed past it welcome (at least here on this tiny republic). Those who once took it, or took it on a regular basis will always have their memories of it. These, no one can take away.
It doesn't really matter what we do to the tracks. A railway track which no longer has train rumbling along on it ceases to be one. A railway station which no longer welcome and sent off travellers, ceases to be one. For those who are adding their voice to the idea of turning the track into be a green corridor, ask yourself when you were last at Chek Jawa. And for those who are discussing about conserving the station, I await with bated breath for someone to come up with something beyond the hotel (One Fullerton), art space (The Old Parliament House) or entertainment complex (St. James Powerhouse.) Please, for once, surprise me.

As I watched on the TV screen the train leaving, I can almost imagine the smell of diesel and the buzz of the horn lingering in the air. I just wished it wasn't done in the dark of night. How wonderful it would be if we can send the train off the way the Japanese welcome their new Kyushu Shinkasen (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t44CD3zQq4).

And it is with great satisfaction to know that once past midnight, the station, the land it is on and the land the railway track is on will henceforth be the property of the Republic of Singapore.
Welcome home.

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