Tuesday 2 August 2011

June, 2011: Tanjong Pagar station to Johor Bahru Sentral station (and NO, there is no typo here)

If you were in Singapore in the month of June, you would know what this is all about.
79 years after the first train pulled into Tangjong Pagar railway station(TP), the last will leave on the night of 30 June 2011. The railway station will cease to be one (and get 'downgraded' to a 'national monument'...I mean, what railway station with any pride would want to be a national monument.) All KTM (Malaysia railway) trains will stop at the Woodland station, the only remaining working railway station south of the Straits of Johor.

When it became apparent that all it takes to be part of this nation's history is the price of a train ticket, the people of Singapore rise to the occasion. Once the June school holiday rolled around, the weekends started seeing a surge in passenger volume. Shuttlebugs (or anyone who still have the use of their right index finger) were turning out in full force at the station, on the railway tracks and the Bukit Timah station, sitting between TP and Woodland station. Nature lovers were organizing walks along the tracks, and foodies (I take it means people who love their food, which I think includes 99.99% of our population) were braving the crowd to eat at the station canteen (the stalls will have to vacate.)

On the last Saturday of TP's operation, I stepped into the frenzy. A little price to pay to be part of history.
I was actually on a SDN-organized tour and believe were put on a chartered train. They were really packing us in. By the time the train left the platform, it was packed end to end. By the time the excitment of being part of history wears off (which took less than the time to go from TP to somewhere near Henderson), the passengers were complaining about the air-con, or rather the lack of it. Everyone on my car (which was the last ones) were sweating profusely.
The relief came in the form of the Bukit Timah Station. Here, the train made a stop. Not a whistle stop, but for about an hour. Some of the passengers mistaken this to be the end of the line, and were actually quite happy about it. They were quite happy to leave the train, only to be told that, no sir no mdm, the line goes all the way to JB.
At this point, many were pondering whether to go onto the plaform. Those who have a seat do not wish to vacate, some aunties worry about the steep high steps to the tracks. One father were discouraging his son from stepping out onto the track. Too dangerous, he said, too hot, he said. Until a sinkh in red turban decided to intervene: "Boy, just go lah. Be brave. You young man you know, not like your father, old man." The father, obviously embarrassed, relented. I hope the boy grows to remember this trip, and the lesson he took with it.
But when it became apparent that this was not to be a brief stop, everyone went onto the track.

The cameras were out and everyone were posing on the track, in the station and with the train. Some went for the train itself, no details were spared. From the side, from the back, and even some upskirts pictures.
I were more certain we were not on a regular train, as we were parked on the track furthest from the station. And before we moved on north, we have to make way for one south bound train, and one north bound one which left TP after us.

Just when we were running out of things to do on the tracks, the KTM staff signalled everyone to get back on the train. Everyone was glad it is time again to be on the road. The train left, and before long, some were making plans for their return trip: "I think I will take bus from JB, cannot tahan the train leh." "So stuffy, go back by bus, faster and cooler, next time don't take train anymore." (Sorry ah, the reason we are here is because there is no more next time.) One boy boy was heard asking his mum: "Mummy, can go home already?"

The journey from Bukit Timah to Woodland were much smoother, and faster. As the wind blows into the car, it was more tolerable. When the train stopped at Woodland checkpoint, there were the same relief-followed-by-disappointment scene: "Oh, good. That's it. Can go home liao", followed by "Huh, not jyet? Must clear custom some more?"
Anyway, that's the view from the last car on the train. Heard that the first car were fully air-conditioned, so I gues the folks there had a much pleasant ride.Custom was not much of an hassle. And good riddance to this ridiculous pre-July-2011 routine of first entering Malaysia before leaving Singapore (I know the world is round...but still....). Once everyone cleared custom, we were back on the train for the short hop across the Johor Straits. This time, no one were disapoointed, this is indeed the end of the line for us: Johor Bahru Sentral.
The return trip in the late afternoon was a much pleasant one. Everyone got their seat, and the entire train was air-conditioned. I guess that's because this is a regular service train. As the late afternoon cools into evening, the crowd were out in full force along the Bukit Timah and Rifle Range Rd sections of the track. I even caught a glimpse of a couple (in the full wedding glory) with the entourage.

The train pull into TP around 8pm. We were greeted by a mass of photographers, so many that the security were sent in. And the food stalls were making brisk business. The sky were darkening as I made my way out of the station, carefully not to be in the way of the photograhers.

It was an even crazier scene as I witness the last train pulling out of Tanjong Pagar Station. A lot have been said about the train, the station and the memories. But I guess, railway as a mode of transportation, in this age of budget airline and common car-owning, had stayed past it welcome (at least here on this tiny republic). Those who once took it, or took it on a regular basis will always have their memories of it. These, no one can take away.
It doesn't really matter what we do to the tracks. A railway track which no longer has train rumbling along on it ceases to be one. A railway station which no longer welcome and sent off travellers, ceases to be one. For those who are adding their voice to the idea of turning the track into be a green corridor, ask yourself when you were last at Chek Jawa. And for those who are discussing about conserving the station, I await with bated breath for someone to come up with something beyond the hotel (One Fullerton), art space (The Old Parliament House) or entertainment complex (St. James Powerhouse.) Please, for once, surprise me.

As I watched on the TV screen the train leaving, I can almost imagine the smell of diesel and the buzz of the horn lingering in the air. I just wished it wasn't done in the dark of night. How wonderful it would be if we can send the train off the way the Japanese welcome their new Kyushu Shinkasen (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t44CD3zQq4).

And it is with great satisfaction to know that once past midnight, the station, the land it is on and the land the railway track is on will henceforth be the property of the Republic of Singapore.
Welcome home.

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