After wandering off into the side-streets from the walking street, I found myself in the part of downtown that I guess the locals had been warning me against venturing in. This is no longer the touristy part of downtown. There were no museums, galleries, nor government buildings. What it has are churches, roadside stalls and shops. 3 weeks in Mexico, I noticed that the churches and stalls and markets seem to go hand-in-hand. Where-ever there is a church, stalls and markets seem to spring up around it. But I guess it's been like that since way way back...
"And Jesus went into the temple of God, and cast out all them that sold and bought in the temple, and overthrew the tables of the moneychangers, and the seats of them that sold doves,"--Matthew 21:12
Under the bright afternoon sun of Monterrey, I really do not feel any danger lurking around. Everyone were either out on a Sunday shopping trip, or, as in the case of the storekeepers and street vendors, were there making a honest living. But once in a few side streets, there were the police pickup trucks parked by the side, with the usual armed police.
One last stop before I call it a day was the Barrio Artigua, or the Old District. It is supposed to the conserved part of the downtown. As with other conserved downtown around the world, businesses such as art gallery, pubs and restaurants seems to have taken over.
Other than a couple of art gallery, most of the businesses seem to be closed, and would be open until the evening. But here in the narrow cobble-stoned side streets, I found the Mexico of my imagination (the result of those Looney Tunes Speedy Gonzales cartoons): brightly-painted buildings and old beat-up American trucks.
That, then, was supposed to wrap up the day. Actually, some river-side dining was supposed to wrap up the evening, seeing from the map that Barrio Artiguo was next to a river, the Rio Santa Catarina. In reality, the river has dried up, and a highway seperate the Barrio and the river. I was wandering off looking for a taxi at a more crowded area (my theory is that the more honest drivers would seek their business in the crowded area, although I have no reason to believe this theory has much merit), when I saw what looks like an artificial river under a bridge.
Turns out it's one of the main attraction in Monterrey (yes, I have came downtown without really checking out any guidebook): The Santa Lucia Riverwalk (Spanish: Paseo Santa Lucía). It's quite obviously an artificial river/canal. There was a gathering point for cruiseboats up the river. I forego the cruise and decided to walk along the bank up the river. Walking up the river, it become obvious how Monterrey first made its wealth. The area on both banks of the river is known as the Parque Fundidora, a well-kept area a world apart from the residential downtown. The area used to be part of an area of steel foundries, once the source of Monterrey wealth. The foundries may no longer be smelting iron, but Monterrey's proximity from USA meant it is still an industrial power house within Mexico (...until China came along in recent years, that is.)
As expected, the artificial river has to end somewhere. It ended in the old foundires, now serving new purposes as sporting complex, museums, and conventional centres.
By now, the sun is setting and it is time to leave downtown before the "day watch" takes over, before downtown turns as dangerous as it is reputed to be. But before leaving, I need to risk arms and legs to get back into downtown.
There was a long queue at a roast chicken fast food restaurant ealier in the afternoon, I just have to get back to take out some, hoping the queue will be shorter by now. Luckily, the queue at the EL Pollo Locco was gone, even if it was still as crowded. I noticed also that the streets are now quite deserted, and many of the shops had drawn their shutter down. I guess all have the same idea as me, to get out before the streets turn dark.
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